Ciao Roma! Laura Lives La Dolve Vida...




Joe's Here!


dead bugs
dead drunk bugs
The night before Joe arrived I went out with Antonio yet again. We had a foolish evening of trying to find particular restaurants. He had one in mind and we walked to it, but being Monday, it was shut. Then I told him I'd heard about a pizza place that plays live jazz. We tried to find that but had no luck. Finally we settled in to a slightly fancy trendy pizza place and I was happily mesmerised to listen to Antonio order up food in Italian.

A few things happened before dinner, however. Firstly, Antonio came over and went to pour us some martinis, but since I'd lost the cap after the poker party two weeks ago, the bottle had been left open. Thus when Antonio poured out the Martini, he discovered what he called "a colony." I was in the kitchen getting ice and slices of lime when I heard him say, "Lawra (cuz that's how they say it here), we have a colony." Of course I have no idea what he's talking about and I think maybe he's confused about English or maybe I misheard him. So I say, "What?" and he says "We have a colony." This is when I came out and saw the dead drunk bugs. Who knew little bugs fancy Martinis? And, just think, what a stupendous death they had in there. Of course, as much fun as it was to see all these dead drunk bugs, it was even more fun to recall Antonio calling them a colony. It made me feel so 1776!

Surrending the Martini idea, we diverted to the classic gin-n-tonics. This is when Antonio proved he'd outsmarted me once again. While telling me about my forthright journal life, he confessed that he had something to tell me too. He confessed that the jazz CD he gave me, Temperino, was really his own! So what he'd done was give me the music last week, asked me to listen to it and then, after I told him very bluntly how I felt about each song (some I liked, some I didn't) he confessed that I was critiquing him! What a tricky sorcerer!



joe spots the palantine
joe spots the palantine
After a relatively late evening with Antonio (we were the last ones to leave the pizza joint), I wokeup at 9am to welcome Joe to the apartment. I made us some eggs and then we went out for a stroll. I took him to see all the great sites of Rome. We wandered to the Colosseum, past the Roman Forum, the Palatine Hill, through Circus Maximus, past Piazza Venezia, over to the Fontana de Trevi, into the Pantheon and then through Piazza Navona. Finally we went down to Campo de'Fiori for pizza and lots of wine.
joe coins the fountain
joe coins the fountain
After drinking a liter and a half of cheap house red wine, we strolled our way back home for a nice long nap. First we bought cookies, of course, as we needed something to inspire us onward. Getting home, it took no time before both of us were dead to the world in happy nappy land. Eventually I wokeup, hit the grocery store and got us a fresh bottle of Chianti. We finished off the cookies, drank the chianti and then hussled ourselves out for real legitimate dinner. It's a rough life eating and drinking and sleeping constantly!
joe, teresa, nick
joe, teresa, nick
naming the states
Since it was almost raining out and since Joe was really hungry by this time, we ended up just stopping at a restaurant up the road. They had a three pasta sampler dinner option and so we tried a whole bunch of different pastas. Spinach and cheese raviolis, some kind of potato and cheese extra large gnocchi type things and then rice with parmesan and red wine sauce. Then Joe had the veal (he's horrible!) and I had the grilled cheese. For those who don't know, the grilled cheese here is not a grilled cheese sandwich but rather just a bunch of cheese grilled up. Quite yummy for a cheese fiend like me.

During dinner Joe made his first Italian friend: a dark grey and white dog named Umi. He fed Umi veal and bread and Umi pretty much decided he never wanted to leave Joe's side. This made the Italian waiters a little confused. They normally don't encourage four legged dinner partons, but since we were already seated, letting him join our table seemed reasonable. At some point, after the veal was gone, Umi disappeared and so did we.

chris drunken at the drunken ship
chris drunken at the drunken ship
It was time for Campo de'Fiori and more fun.

The way my life in Rome works is this: I only know like 5 people in all of Rome, but somehow I constantly seem to be crossing paths with them. This time, just as Joe and I arrived at the Drunken Ship I ran into Chris. He was there having drinks with some of his Italian school classmates. This included Nick and Mike, two New Zealand blokes who've set up a burger joint in France, and then Teresa, a young German girl who, for whatever reason, seems to prefer English speaking company to proper Germans. (Can't blame her... Germans are wierd... Remember all the naked ones I saw in Riva del Garda?)

nick's great shot
nick's great shot
Thus the six of us sat outside and had a bunch of rounds of drinks. We made very friendly with Lillian, the Floridian waitress, and she spent most of her evening hanging around with us instead of waitressing. (Hey, it's the Italian way!) At some point Nick and Joe did a throw down about who could name all fifty states. Since Nick is from New Zealand and has spent too much time in France, it seemed a safe bet that Joe could prevail. Unfortunately, this was not the case. Joe made it to around 39 states just as Nick finished with his final state, Oklahoma. Shame on Joe! Of course Chris and I officiated the contest, which is the long and short way of saying we didn't have to know all fifty states ourselves. We just got to make fun of them for not knowing them!

joe honks the swan
joe honks the swan
Somewhere along the way it was decided that doing shots of Jaegermeister was a good idea. That's when the night started going a little swishy. Joe and Nick, in yet another throw down battle of wits, spent about half an hour trying to explain the difference between a swan and a goose to Teresa. (see: Joe's Stupid Question of the Day) I don't think they ever really made the distinction clear, despite all the great "honk" sounds Joe made. Either way, everyone was happily amused and after all the goosing around, it was time for more shots. This time we did the classic rum and pear shots. Oh yes! Mixing cheap red wine with gin-n-tonics with jaegermeister with rum and pear juice!

At some point here, Joe started picking up on some cute Texas girl at the table behind us. The rest of us decided it was time to disappear and thus we followed Teresa to some dance club bar near Piazza Navona.

Turns out that, despite all my best intentions, I still somehow managed to find myself in a hip hop club. How and why does this always happen to me? I just don't ever feel quite right in those places.. but I make the best of it.

The four of us had more Jaegermeister and did some booty shaking until we just couldn't shake our booties no more. (Also known as when they turned the lights on and started kicking us out.) From there we hopped in a taxi and went back to the apartment for some poker and more drinking. (Yes, brilliant idea! Just what we all needed!)

chris crashes
chris crashes
Teresa, being wiser than the rest of us, hopped out of the taxi at Piazza Venezia and went home. Chris and Nick came over and we settled in to play some poker (after chasing Nick in from the outside garden where he was quite determined to sleep or fall into a coma.) The cards were not in my favor, but Chris ended the game with a big old 8 high straight.. only to be topped by the queen high straight Nick landed off the draw. It was ridiculous.

Being that none of us were of sound mind or body, it finally was time for everyone to pass out. Chris tried to do that in the bathroom but eventually he was convinced otherwise. Thus the picture above of the poor guy asleep on my couch. Joe finally stumbled home at 4:30am and tried to break down the door with his shoudler before I finally got up and let him in. He, like Chris, also passed out quite mightily. (And how he got his arm into that position, we still have not figured out.)

joe crashes
joe crashes
Of course the fun part of all this is that of Chris and Nick and Teresa's Italian class, there are a total of ten students. Since those three were certifiably broken and since Mike (who left early and missed all the Jaeger fun) also did not go, it seems half their Italian class went MIA on the same day. Oh how impressed their teachers must be! This also justifies my continued belief that investing in Italian language courses is pretty foolish. I'd always end up sleeping through them. Best to keep learning bits here and there instead.

Being that today is only Wednesday and only Joe's second day in Rome, I am starting to fear for my sanity. Last night was more fun than I should have had on a Tuesday.. who knows what'll be in store for the rest of the weekend!




joe sings with the fishes
joe sings with the fishes
Today was a day of recovery. Joe tried to go out and have a nice pasta and wine lunch but returned completely sick to his stomach. I gave him aspirin and we both sat around laughing in goofy ways about our evenings. He told me he snuck his way into some underground mega sports bar and got kicked out for fighting or talking in too much Portuguese or something. I told him about my crazy poker games and about extracting Nick from the Italian garden. We both agreed it was a nutty evening and that we both lacked the drive/nerve/guts/livers to do it again tonight.

However Chris told me over the weekend about a two-for-one happy hour at the Hard Rock from 4 to 7pm. Joe and I were craving nachos and cheap American cocktails, so we mosied our ways up there around 5:30. In true happy hour fashion we each had 4 margaritas, a plate of nachos and some onion rings with BBQ sauce. Feeling much more human, we trapsed (or rather stumbled) onto Via Veneto to look for more fun.


giganta lobster
giganta lobster
I figured it'd be a good time, despite the drizzly rain, to wander Joe up to Piazza d'Spagna so that he could see the Spanish Steps. We did that and, at that point, after a half hour of not drinking and extreme night-before-hangover-exhaustion, we decided to take a Metro home. Unfortunately, or fortunately, I took us up the wrong street and we spotted a trendy fancy restaurant with a large fish tank and a swarm of extra large monster lobsters inside. We decided to stop in for a cocktail and more to eat.

This place was very cool looking, but absolutely and completely empty. Our only companions were the lobsters, an eel and a couple of big ghost white fish that kept circling the tank (eating the focaccia I was tossing in at them). Joe had some risotto seafood stuff, I had some cheeses, and he tried some Campari/Prosecco drink while I had a pair of apple pie martinis. All was good - we got silly - started playing a little too much with the lobsters (see: Joe's Stupid Question of the Day) and eventually felt encouraged to be on our way and go home.


touching you, touching me
touching you, touching me
Thus we are home a bit early tonight and about to take naps before trying to rouse ourselves for the Yankees/RedSox match at 2am. We'll see how that goes. Either way, at least we made new lobster friends!



Thursday was a pretty stupid pointless day. I don't even remember anymore what we did. It went pretty much like every other day in our pointless aimless lives. We wokeup. I went walking. Joe wrote his Stupid Question of the Day. Then we ate. Then we napped. Then we went out to drink and eat some more.

For dinner we met a new friend. This was Alexander, a guy from Sydney who works for the Australian Embassy here in Rome. When we say "work" we mean he is on an "unemployed internship." Yeah. Joe and I don't get it either. We don't even want to work for money, much less for nothing.

We had dinner, lots of champagne at the fancy champagne bar in Trastevere and then the night went a little sour. Joe left and went to watch the Yankees games at his underground sports bar. I had to fend off Alexander for a while, but did eventually make it to bed, alone and happy.

joe and devki
joe and devki
On Friday Joe and I wokeup, ate lunch, napped and then had wine while waiting for Devki to arrive from London. She finally got in at 10pm and found us both completely drunk. We had just been out on the street where we ran into our New Zealand friends from the Tuesday. They looked very determined to make more mischief and although we vowed to meetup later, we all knew that would never happen. Rome has a way of sucking you into a void of chaos, delusion and red wine. That's why I like it.

So, yeah, Devki arrived and I was nervous about how well she and Joe would get along. I worried that because her personality is as loud as his that they might clash, but instead they immediately bonded. The next day, I kid you not, I caught Joe down on one knee with an engagement ring to her. I double-took my look and then they were back to standing there, giggling together, and being well behaved. So, yeah, long and short, they got along swell.
We went out and met up with Dario, Antonio and Antonio (a new one!) at Sloppy Sams after having a big old mess of pizza up the street. Dario didn't last long with us, but Antonio and Antonio joined the three of us to watch the Yankees game at 2am over at Joe's Underground Sport Bar. (The name is yet to be registered, but soon enough!)

The night was very long. We finally got booted out of the joint at 4 or 5am. Came home and Devki and I talked boy talk for hours while Joe lulled himself into a peaceful, non-boytalk slumber.


devki and joe at brunch
devki and joe at brunch
We wokeup and were motivated (read: they were motivated and dragged me along) to have brunch at Babington's Tea Room up by the Spanish Steps. We all had "Eggs Benedictine" and lots of water (22.50euros worth!) and orange juice and all that good brunch crap. It was a fine long brunch, but it was way overpriced. 125euros for 3 people for brunch? Not worth it.

Originally Joe told Devki he'd join her on some touring and for some shopping but, in true Italian fashion, he got over that whole "motivation" thing and wanted to go home and take a nap with me. (Who can blame him?) Devki was less than enthused and thus she dragged us all over tarnation with her for a long hour walk back to my flat. We somehow ended up at the Pantheon, where Devki gave a horrid scream when she saw that they were doing, THE HORROR, reconstruction on one-sixth of the place.

Finally Joe and I deposited Devki at the tourist office (a proper place for all tourists to be deposited) and we went home to nap. Devki wandered the streets, bought lemoncello and parmesan and other Italian things. We slept. Finally by 7pm we were all home and dressed and motivated to go out for a fun night with my wacky Italian pals.


dario, john and paul
dario and john and paul
We met Paul and John and Dario and another new John at Sloppy Sam's. They were already taking drinks, so we quickly joined in. Lots of meaningless pointless conversation ensued (read: Paul was leading). After two rounds I insisted we go to dinner. Of course Dario and Paul, in true Italian fashion, had neglected to actually make any dinner reservations.. so now 7 of us were left to fend for ourselves in the mean Italian streets.

It was rough but we survived. We finally found a place to take us and we all proceeded to drink wine, eat so-so food and talk up more nonsense.

Here's some pictures from our encounter:


john and dario
john & dario
laura and paul
laura & paul
dario poses
dario poses
john leers
john leers


After dinner the group brokeup into a load of disarray. I blame Antonio and his sorcerer magic. He appeared out of nowhere at the Pantheon and with two lady friends. One of them was, apparently, Dario's ex from around ten years ago. What fun to see Dario squirm when he confronts ex girlfriends! But not fun enough for us to last all night watching in amusement. Thus we migrated over to the Drunken Ship.

Unfortunately the Drunken Ship was painfully crowded. We instead decided to return to our regular place next door to Sloppy Sam's. The waitress there is a complete bitch and hates us every time we sit down, but I think I'm warming on her, and vice versa. We had her clean off some rain soaked tables and Joe and Devki and Antonio and I took a few "digestifs" (read: Italian way of saying "more booze"). Both Johns had disappeared.. Dario was off chasing his ex girlfriend.. and Paul was lurking around corners making strange michievious faces at me. Finally they all disappeared and poor Antonio was trapped with three Americans as we explained our traditions of Thanksgiving and Groundhog Day. He smiled a lot and nodded a lot. I think he read that in a pamphlet distributed by the Italian government that addresses "how to deal with crazy slightly drunk and not-quite threatening Americans at a bar."


we're all wet
we're all wet
Needless to say Antonio survived long enough to flee to his motorbike at the Pantheon. Joe and Devki and I were left to walk ourselves home. It was 2am and there were no taxis and it was raining. Lightly. At least for a while. Then it started pouring. A lot. We were completely covered. Drenched. Soaked through. It was quite funny. Thus we all pulled off our clothes and cuddled up to watch game three of the ALCS playoffs on a MLB.com stream. (Italian translation: We watched the Yankees/RedSox game over the Internet.)

Today we bade farewell to Devki and she returned to London and now Joe and I are drinking our second glass of wine before dinner. Surely more chaos will ensue... especially since it's the 4th game of the ALCS playoff and we are sure to return to Joe's Underground Sports Bar at 2am for that game.




joe and laura go tourist internationale
joe and laura go tourist internationale
With Devki gone all the fun stopped. Heh. Yeah right!

Sunday night wasn't all that exciting. I almost had a chance to see one of our New Zealand friends on Sunday night but he suddenly caught the wild bird flu from Taiwan and went MIA. Instead Joe and I went out and had dinner at the "mushroom restaurant" up the street, where we got a little too tired and drunk and invented a new language that only the two of us understand. Needless to say that by midnight we were both asleep and catching up on the slumber we'd missed over the past few days.

On Monday I wokeup feeling very inpired. I wet for a two hour hike around Circo Massimo and returned to find Joe as stagnant as ever. Not sure what we did after that, but eventually we went out to the Scottish bar on Nazionale. Had a few rounds, Joe hit on the bartender girls and I tried to figure out how to check my cell phone voicemail. (The messages were starting to clog up like a bad broken toilet.) Then we strolled over to a cheap tourist restaurant around the corner. This place put flags on your table to identify where you're from. Of course we didn't want to be identified as Americans.. so Joe tried to pass us off as Canadians. I wasn't into that either. Canadian versus Amerian? Isn't that like hell or double roasted hell? We were screwed. So we took both of them (as you can see.)

After that we strolled over to Campo dei Fiori and the Drunken Ship. Not much happening in Rome on a Monday but we got an outside table and met Greg, the doorguy, and all his girlfriends. Joe offered to take over his job.. but this Greg guy had it right. All these drunk American girls, lost in Rome and in need. Greg has the best job on the planet. (At least for a guy!)

Eventually we met an Irish dude who was one in the same as the guy who booted Joe from the sports bar a week earlier. We made friendly and then all headed over to Joe's Underground Sports Bar. Unfortunately the bar was full of stupid Boston college kids rooting for the Red Sox. I had to leave. Joe stayed and ended up in a big old fight. When I wokeup Tuesday he had a nice big shiner on his cheek. Go Joe!

joe & julia
julio & joe
Alright, so Tuesday. Tuesday I meant to do something but that never happened. Instead I sat around playing the Sims while Joe achieved small chore miracles. (He dropped off his laundry and picked up some "fizzy water" for the apartment.)

Since our trip to Greece this weekend is all set, we had nothing to worry about. Or so I thought. Until I got email from my sublet tenants in New York telling me that the building management people were trying to evict them for illegally subletting my place. Bollocks, right? That's what I said.

Turns out that all that happened is the building people slipped a note under almost everyone's doors telling them that they were aware that some people were subletting illegallly. My subletors assumed this meant them and so they went down and tried to confront the management people. In general that is a bad idea. New York management people are the worst type of people in the planet. When confronted by slightly mentally unstable older guys with MS, they are even more abberant. This is what we learned. Apparently the woman my tenant talked to told him off.. and thus my tenant spent the evening telling me about my improperly place subwoofers, about how he was going to file litigation against me, about how he wanted some Gentleman Jack but I didn't have some and about how, when and if I return to the US my passport will be confiscated. Who knew it was internationally illegal for a simple blonde girl to sublet her place to a slightly mentally unstable older guy and his sweet wife? Not me!


melanie and dave
melanie & dave
So my life pretty much was becoming hell on wheels.. insane... I tried to ring my building managemet people in New York but the woman in charge had already gone home. 2pm. So Italian of her!

Anyway. So after all this chaos, I drank a gin and gin and gin and gin and tonic. Then Antonio arrived, calmed my nerves and we all went out to find a nice pizzeria. Thus we did (with a small unintentional tour en route). There we met with Julio, Antonio's musician/actor friend from Napoli. The four of us had dinner, white wine, pizzas, grappa, all that good stuff.

From there we drove Julio's car to Campo de Fiori. Of course I tried to give him directions about where to park, but I am pretty much as worthless about parking in Rome as in speaking in Rome. So we parked somewhere else and walked a ways.

In Campo, we met Melanie (my newest British friend) and her friend Dave (from New York). Many tequila shots later, we were all buying all the roses from everyone on the square (in Rome there are sellers who try to get you to buy a bunch of roses. Early in the night they are 10 euros, then later 5 euros, then even later, for "some money." Thus we gave them "some money" and ended up with too many roses.) As 2am rolled around we found ourselves in need of a newer and later open bar. Thus Melanie suggested Jonathan's Angels. This place is full of pictures of the owner, a light haired older Italian guy, in all sorts of kooky and precarious poses. Quite funny. Unfortunately Melanie and I were trying to swindle free drinks and were not successful before they shut the bar and we had to go elsewhere.

This is when we found our way to another underground bar.. or, rather, a proper club. We had to join to get in, so Joe forked over the 5 euros each membership fee and we all tossed in our ID cards. Unfortunately this gaggle of German guys Melanie and I had picked up somehow from Jonathan's Angels were without ID and thus could not enter.
dave and the rose selling guy
Inside there was absolutely nobody. We pretty much owned the whole bar. That is until 3:30am when all of the sudden a whole mess of Italians, men mainly, poured in and took over. Lots of bad dancing and even worse music ensued. I had to rescue Melanie from some Italian dude in a doo-rag.. and I think she was grateful, but then he kept zeroing in again and again on her. Joe started chatting up this obviously gay dancer Italian guy.. and claimed he was trying to find out where a strip club was.. but I don't believe him. Who knows what was going on there... Joe's always in some kind of mischief.

With all the drinks, the crazy dancing people and the late hour I finally decided to scamper home at 5am. I left the rest of the crowd and was kindly escorted by some strange dude on the street to the nearest taxi. (Italy seems ripe with men willing to escort a lady to a taxi in exchange for her following him all sorts of wrong directions and then forking over her number after the fact. I'm keen on this trick though and thus I found my own taxi!)

Not sure when Joe got home. I returned and saw how painfully late it was.. and how the Yankees were losing.. and thus I went to bed.

Wednesday was a wash. Joe and I both wokeup really late.. did nothing.. I had to battle my crazy sublet tenants more in New York (don't worry - full length version of that story will be online soon.. ).. and I had to talk to the creep management people of my apartment all the day long. After being super stressed I did what any smart girl would do. I agreed to go with Joe, have a bunch of pizza and wine and then come home half sloshed and wait for Antonio to come over for a while.

Thus that was my evening. Pizza. Wine. Antonio. I know.. I'm starting to repeat myself.. Forgive me.. but when a girl finds a good thing...

Joe and I wokeup at 2:30am to watch game seven of the ALCS championship.. Or in other words, the final Yankees/Red Sox game. Needless to say the Yankees sucked it up bigtime and both Joe and I went to bed in sad desperation. The only good thought we could have was that since the Yankees weren't in the World Series anymore at least we wouldn't be missing the games so much when we're on our cruise this coming week!

Yes, 'tis right! Tomorrow Joe and I fly to Athens. We spend a night there at the Marriott (with a friends and family discount thanks to my friend Chris in Maryland!).. Then on Saturday we take the Wind Star Spirit cruise through the Greek Islands, over to Sicily and then to Capri and back to Rome. Seven fun filled nights and days! And on a fancy sailboat! How nice!

Unfortunately there is no Internet access on our big fancy boat. Thus you'll all just have to wait for a great big huge update when we return next Saturday! Til then, ciao!!



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Content & Photos © 2004 Laura Laytham, laura@girlsaresmarter.com.